Savoring the Central Coast
By on January 12, 2011 11:55 AM
A twilight view of the Santa Ynez Valley from the perspective of Gainey Vineyards.
In the late 18th century, Father Junipero Serra planted grapevine cuttings from Mexico into the fertile soil of Santa Barbara County, sowing the first vineyard among the region’s breathtaking valleys and mountains.
The Ojai Valley
More than two centuries later, the county now boasts upwards of 100 wineries, producing vintages that rival that of Napa Valley, its famous neighbor to the north. But despite the impressive accolades awarded to its varietals, Santa Barbara wine country retains its mellow and unpretentious appeal.
The ease and charm of the region lends itself to a relaxing getaway just a few hours from Laguna Beach. And fall is the perfect time to relish the region’s harvest season, which is several weeks later than usual thanks to this summer’s cooler weather. So drive up the coast for chance to sip and savor the unparalleled tastes of the region just north of Santa Barbara.
Sip
In the past 25 years, the region has experienced a wine renaissance, gaining prominence for its remarkable pinot noir and chardonnay, and additional fame as the location where the 2004 movie “Sideways” was filmed. Directed by Alexander Payne, the Academy Award-wining film told the story of two middle-aged men visiting the region for a weeklong wine tasting.
“The movie ‘Sideways’ shined a spotlight on the beautiful Santa Ynez Valley that will hopefully never fade,” says Shawnda Marmorstein, who owns Los Olivos Wine Merchant and Cafe (2879 Grand Ave., Los Olivos; 805-688-7265; losolivoscafe.com) with her husband Sam. A wine tasting bar, the Wine Merchant was prominently featured in the film, which accurately captures the sensibility of the regions, Shawnda says.
Los Olivos Cafe & Wine Merchant
“Although the characters depicted were unlike anyone I know, the down-to-earth and unassuming nature of our tourist industry was accurately captured,” she says. “And, of course, the abundant beauty that surrounds us here in wine country … made me think, ‘Wow, I live there!’ ”
One of the bountiful farmers markets to be found in and around Los Olivos.
As the showcase for an award-winning selection of wines from the California’s central coast, the Wine Merchant is the perfect spot for an introduction to the bounty of the region. Its selection of wine pairs well with the seasonal local cuisine served at the café.
Table for two at Los Olivos Cafe & Wine Merchant.
“We like to think of ourselves as an approachable place to explore wine and experience local flavors at their best,” Shawnda says.
To visit where the wine is made, enjoy a leisurely country drive following the Santa Ynez Wine Trail, a cluster of wineries in the Santa Ynez Valley. You can’t visit all 15 in a day, but don’t miss these highlights:
• A family-run vineyard, Sunstone Winery & Vineyards (125 Refugio Rd., Santa Ynez; 805-688-9463; sunstonewinery.com) is the largest organic vineyard estate. All 77 acres of its sun-dappled property, planted with Rhône and Bordeaux varietals, meets California Certified Organic Farmer standards. Taste the terroir of the vineyard in the tasting room, which—along with a courtyard and gardens—resemble a Provencal countryside. Bring a lunch here, and you’ll feel like your picnicking in the south of France.
Sunstone Vineyards & Winery.
• A short distance from Sunstone, Kalyra Winery (343 N. Refugio Rd., Santa Ynez; 805-693-886; kalyrawinery.com) is literally a world away. Owned by Australian-born Mike Brown, the winery’s name is aborigine for “a wild and pleasant place.” The winery offers two labels—Kalyra, produced from grapes sourced in and around Santa Barbara County, and M. Brown, produced from selected vineyards in Australia. The winery has also developed a cult following for its dessert wines.
• Gainey Vineyards (3950 E. Hwy. 246, Santa Ynez; 805-688-0558; gaineyvineyard.com) produces wines on 85 acres of vineyards, which the Gainey family has owned since 1962. The tasting room boasts a shop and demonstration vineyard just outside, and the winery hosts short wine tours that conclude with a tasting in the barrel room. An extensive picnic area that looks out on the surrounding mountains is known for its summer concerts.
Gainey Vineyard
• Buttonwood Farm Winery & Vineyard (1500 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang; 805-688-3032; buttonwoodwinery.com) is a friendly place reflecting the lifestyle of owner Betty Williams, who has sustainably managed the property since the 1960s. Guests are encouraged to sip wine in the garden, says Sherrill Duggan O’Neill, the vineyard’s sales and marketing manager: “Through thoughtful landscaping, Betty Williams has created visual treats for our guests who come to picnic or just sit, relax or contemplate nature.” In addition to its award-winning wines, Buttonwood produces a variety of fruits and vegetables.
Buttonwood Farm Winery
• The tasting room is reason enough to visit Rideau Vineyard (1562 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang; 805-688-0717; rideauvineyard.com). An extensive entryway of English gardens and lawns leads to the room, which is a refurbished country landmark known as the Alamo Pintado Adobe that was originally built in 1884. Specializing in Rhône varietal wines, Rideau is highly regarded for its production of high-end quality wines.
In the midst of all this bounty is the picturesque town of Solvang, a charming place with Danish-style architecture that houses innumerable possibilities for shopping, eating and pampering. It may be the perfect spot to dance to Danish folk music and sample Danish pastries, but Solvang is more than just windmills. The town boasts several wine tasting rooms within walking distance, from Lions Peak Vineyards Tasting Room (1659 Copenhagen Dr., Solvang; 805-693-5466; lionspeakwine.com) to Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards (1645 Copenhagen Dr., Solvang; 805-686-9336; llwine.com). At the center of town, Tastes of the Valleys (1656 Mission Dr., Solvang; 805-688-7111; tastesofthevalleys.com) invites guests to taste wine in the cellar of a historic building.
From wineries in Santa Ynez to tasting rooms in Solvang, the Santa Ynez Valley is an oenophile’s sanctum.
Savor
But what to pair with the all that wine? Luckily, the same land that produces award-winning vintage also offers top-shelf restaurants.
Let’s start in the center of Ojai at Azu Mediterranean Restaurant and Tapas Bar (457 E. Ojai Ave., Ojai; 805-640-7987; azuojai.com), where executive chef and owner Laurel Moore whips up “California Spanish” cuisine based on her travels in Spain.
“In traveling around Spain, I couldn’t help but feel how similar the climate and terrain were to Ojai and Southern California. I felt the lifestyle and way of eating was perfect for this area,” Laurel says. “Now…I adapt our local produce to the tastes that are Spanish, but are also decidedly Californian.”
Start out with the delightfully fresh grilled Caprese artichoke stuffed with tomato, fresh mozzarella, basil and olive oil, or opt for the dates stuffed with chorizo and wrapped in bacon. For an entrée, indulge in the seafood paella—a succulent combination of shrimp, calamari, scallops and Spanish sausage, mixed with saffron ride, artichoke and peas. Follow it up with some fresh homemade gelato. While the flavors change seasonally, you can be sure to find unique tastes, such as mango chili lime and blood orange dark chocolate.
Head across town to The Ranch House (S. Lomita Ave., Ojai; 805-0646-2360; theranchhouse.com), an eatery famed for its lush gardens and original award-winning cuisine. Actor Paul Newman famously said, “Cuisine is cuisine, but the Ranch House is original.” When there, try the grilled diver scallops, grilled and served on lightly curried sweet corn sauce with dry vermouth. Iron Chef Cat Cora featured the dish on the Food Network’s “The Best Thing I Ever Ate.”
Alisal Lake
For a change of pace, head up the road to Deer Lodge Restaurant (2261 Maricopa Hwy., Ojai; 805-646-4256; ojaideerlodge.net). Open since 1932, this restaurant serves up almost every kind of meat. If you’re feeling adventurous, try the game plate, a selection that could include venison, wild boar, frog legs, kangaroo, alligator, antelope or rabbit. Watch the free-roaming horses, listen to live music or dance on Ojai’s largest dance floor.
Drive around Los Padres National Forest to Los Olivos, where Brothers’ Restaurant at Mattei’s Tavern (2350 Railway Ave., Los Olivos; 805-688-4820; matteistavern.com) is a mainstay. Brothers Jeff and Nichols characterize their food as “brother’s cuisine” because it is based on their combined culinary backgrounds. “It stems way back to our upbringing and living in Iowa with gardens around us,” Jeff says. Items on the tempting menu include grilled prime filet with caramelized onion potato gratin and roasted chicken breast stuffed with goat cheese.
Before you leave, grab your cowboy hat and head to Maverick Saloon (3687 Sagunto St., Santa Ynez; 805-686-4785; mavericksaloon.org), where musicians like Pat Green and Dierks Bentley have graced the stage. While there, grab a burger at the saloon’s Hayloft Grill, home of “the best burger in the valley.”
Stay
Known for its relaxed pace and easy hospitality, Santa Barbara wine country is used to playing host to visitors. And several venues go above and beyond to offer a singular experience.
Ojai Valley. | Photo courtesy Ojai Valley Inn & Spa
To visit Santa Barbara wine country in style, stay at Ojai Valley Inn and Spa (905 Country Club Rd., Ojai; 805-646-1111; ojairesort.com), a five-diamond resort that is both a golf getaway and a rejuvenating spa retreat. Play a round on the 18-hole green, which has hosted seven PGA tournaments, then soothe your muscles with a treatment at Spa Ojai. Laguna artists will love the hacienda-style Cottage & Apothecary, where classes ranging from mixed media, painting on glass, silverpoint drawing, and silk scarf painting are taught.
Express your artistic side during your stay at Ojai Valley Inn.
For a fitness and wellness getaway, head to the Oaks at Ojai (122 E. Ojai Ave., Ojai; 800-753-6257; oaksspa.com)—a destination health spa once known as the original fat farm of the late 1970s. Now it brands itself as “stress-free place that still focuses on healthy weight loss and wellness.” Engage in a variety of fitness classes and activities, relax with a wide array of relaxing spa treatments, and consume a well-rounded 1,000-calorie-a-day food plan.
For an escape into nature, the Alisal Guest Ranch & Resort (1054 Alisal Rd., Solvang; 805-688-6411; alisal.com) is the perfect hideaway for individuals and families. The resort’s unspoiled open spaces maintain the “romance and majesty of the Old West.” Go horseback riding on 50 miles of trails that weave through oak and sycamore trees along scenic canyons and valleys.
If you wanted to be treated like royalty, stay at Hadsten House Inn & Spa (1450 Mission Dr., Solvang; 805-688-3210; hadstenhouse.com).
Hadsten House
Hadsten House jacuzzi tub offers a getaway within a getaway.
A stay at this pleasant hotel includes a daily complimentary wine and cheese reception, as well as tastings at up to 18 wineries and tasting rooms. The thoughtful touches—right down to complimentary spa gifts at turn down—are what make this one of the most popular places to stay in Solvang.
