Tuscany Explored

By Micaela Myers on January 28, 2012 7:00 AM

Think of Tuscany, and you’re likely to conjure postcard images of rolling hills filled with bright poppies or thriving vineyards and dotted with picturesque villas complete with sun-drenched tile roofs. The beauty of Tuscany is that these postcard images are exactly what you get everywhere you turn, thanks in large part to development that includes restoring historic structures rather than tearing them down.
One example of this restoration work is the new five-star Castello di Casole, A Signature Development of Timbers Resorts. The 4,200-acre historic property was originally owned by the Bargagli family, an ancient and noble family of Siena, and account books on the estate date as far back as 1680. The Castello eventually became the home to movie stars and Italian nobility in the 1960s; most notably Luchino Visconti, a renowned Italian filmmaker. He lived in the Castello with his brother and Austrian actor Helmut Berger, of “Godfather III.” Following strict Italian renovation standards and using Tuscan materials, the 28 spacious farmhouses and the castle have been completely restored with tasteful décor and modern amenities—all while blending in perfectly with the countryside. Imagine drinking wine and savoring olive oil grown on the estate, while overlooking your private infinity pool with nothing in the distance but vibrant green hills, forests and vineyards.

Located 20 minutes west of Siena and 45 minutes southwest of Florence, the 19th century farmhouses were restored for fractional and whole-ownership, while the 10th century castle is just opening as a 41-suite boutique luxury hotel featuring a world-class spa and wellness center, swimming pool, pizzeria, stylish bar and visionary fine-dining restaurant. Many of the hotel’s suites offer large private gardens and terraces with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking acres of vineyards and lemon and olive trees.

A stay in a restored villa, farmhouse or castle allows visitors to experience idyllic life in the Tuscan countryside, with easy access to all the cities and sites in the region. 

Florence
Photo by Gino Cianci

Siena and Florence
UNESCO estimates that Tuscany has 10 percent of the world’s most important cultural heritage sites, with six Tuscan localities designated official World Heritage Sites, including the historic city centers of Florence and Siena. Siena is everything you’d hope for in a Tuscan town—old charming buildings, windy cobblestone streets, beautiful churches and a rolling cobblestone town square. In that town square, the famous Palio horse race is held each summer. The bareback, highly dangerous (for horse and rider) race, features 10 horses and riders representing 10 of the city wards. The flags for those wards are proudly displayed year-round as you walk the city, making it clear which neighborhood you’re in as you shop the many boutiques and savor tasty gelato.

For dinner in Siena, Osteria Le Logge is a favorite among locals and visitors. The classic trattoria is located in a 19th-century former grocer’s shop. Local celebrity and owner Gianni Brunelli’s contemporary art collection adorns the walls. Signature dishes include seared tuna with soya and wasabi, and traditional Tuscan favorites like the restaurant’s trademark primo, malfatti all’Osteria (spinach and ricotta gnocchi served in tomato sauce).

For a bigger city experience, head to Florence. Even if you’ve been to Florence before, chances are you probably haven’t had the opportunity to take a private guided tour of the Vasari Corridor. The corridor starts in the Uffizi Gallery and ends up at the Boboli Gardens. It was one of many corridors used to keep the Medici family safe as they travelled the city. Only open to the public via a private tour, which can be arranged through the savvy concierge, the corridor is lined with one-of-a-kind works of art. It travels over the Ponte Vecchio, where you can look through windows widened at Hitler’s request to see panoramic views of the Arno.
At the end of this tour, spending due time in the Boboli Gardens is a must. The large park is located behind the Pitti Palace and in addition to stunning landscaping features a collection of sculptures from the 16th through 18th centuries. Get lunch or a snack to go, and wander the beautiful gardens at leisure.

If shopping is more your style, the concierge can arrange a personal shopper who will guide you to the boutiques of lesser known but stunning Italian designers or to all the big names. Dining options abound, but Ora D’Aria provides a modern atmosphere and stunning cuisine by co-owner and Executive Chef Marco Stabile, a veteran of celebrated Michelin-starred restaurants. The menu features Old and New World cuisine complemented by the artwork of Galleria Bagnal adorning the walls.

Siena
Photo by Vito Arcomano

Wine, Dine and Relax
Of course, the cities are only one option among many in Tuscany. Wine tasting in the famous Chianti region is another major activity for visitors. One winery not to miss is the winery Principe Corsini in Greve. The Corsini family is one of the oldest and most prodigious Tuscan families, with a pope and a saint to their name. Part of Prince Corsini’s property since 1427, the original winery dates back to the end of the 16th century and offers visitors a fine-dining restaurant, pizzeria and a wine bar.

For those staying at resorts like Castello di Casole, not going anywhere at all is an inviting option as well. Each casale, or villa, has a dedicated governante who prepares traditional Tuscan meals with the freshest ingredients. Guests can also opt for a personal chef or cooking classes. Instruction in the Italian language, ceramics, wine making and more are also offered, along with wine and olive oil tasting. The property features ample space for hiking, mountain biking and other outdoor pursuits. Owners can even participate in vineyard cultivation and learn the art of winemaking, as the estate is home to 88 acres of vineyards overseen by renowned winemaker, Paolo Caciorgna. Grapes grown include sangiovese, merlot, cabernet and petit verdot. Thirteen acres of olive trees also allow Castello di Casole to produce its own private-label extra virgin olive oil, which is provided in each kitchen.

Tuscany is truly a feast for the senses—a place you can return to again and again to partake in new sights, sounds and flavors. Lovers of the old and new, the countryside and city, will find much to explore in this beatific section of Italy. Luckily for visitors, the history and feel of Tuscany is being preserved for future generations to experience the magic. 

Insider Advice
Laguna Beach Magazine chats with Silvia Anichini, a native of Florence and the assistant project director and concierge at Castello di Casole, to discover her best suggestions on things to see and do while visiting the area. 

LBM: For people who are visiting the area and want to go wine tasting, what wineries do you recommend and why? 


SA: I love Le Macchie (lemacchie.it), our winemaker’s winery because I saw it growing from zero; Rocca di Frassinello (castellare.it) because [it makes] a statement; and Principe Corsini (principecorsini.com) because you understand that in the past they knew what was the good environment for the wine.

LBM: For those that want to visit the coast, what coastal towns do you recommend and why? 


SA: Bolgheri for wine and history; Versilia is more for nightlife and shopping, while Maremma is synergetic with the Casole area—there is wine, art and sea.

LBM: If people have been to Florence before, what are some things you recommend for them to see and do that they likely haven’t done on previous trips?

SA: See a concert at Boboli Gardens; go for drinks on the terrace of the Continentale; [go to the] Sunday flea market in Santo Spirito and walk with your nose in the air in the center [and] learn how to make a pair of handmade shoes.

LBM: What is your favorite restaurant in Florence? 


SA: Garga in the via del Moro historical center. 


LBM: For a day trip to Siena, what are your recommendations?


SA: The Piazza del Campo; the Palio preparation if during the summer; dinner at Osteria le Logge; shopping along the main road; the Duomo di Siena (cathedral).

LBM: For people who have been to Tuscany before, what are some insider suggestions for new things to see and do? 


SA: I would suggest learning more about wine and participating in winemaking; do a class learning to restore old pieces of furniture or painting; learn some Italian and become ingrained in the lifestyle by making local friends.




LBM: As a local, what is your favorite way to spend the day? 


SA: Cappuccino and croissant with a view if possible, bike to arrive at my favorite place for lunch, then golf or a movie.



LBM: What is your personal favorite restaurant locally? 


SA: Caffe Casolani in Casole d’Elsa.

LBM: What do you think draws people to Tuscany time and again?


SA: The fact that it is never repeating itself—it’s always different in terms of lights, colors, people. You can come a million times and every time is different. 




Laguna’s Culinary Connection
If your favorite part of Tuscany is the cuisine, then you may want to consider joining Laguna Culinary Arts on a future trip to the region.

“My favorite thing to do in Tuscany is sit at a café on a square in one of the many medieval hilltop towns, sip a glass of chilled white Tuscan wine, and watch the people. Makes me feel like a local,” comments Nancy Milby, executive director of Laguna Culinary Arts.

Laguna Culinary Arts often organizes small group trips abroad, including Tuscany and other cuisine-rich areas, such at the Loire Valley.

When Nancy plans a trip to Tuscany, the group stays at Agriturismo San Gallo in the heart of wine country. “It’s a great place, and I am selling the wine and olive oil from their estate here at Laguna Culinary Arts,” Nancy says.

Like Castello di Casole, the property has been lovingly restored. Smaller in scale, it features a large country house with separate apartments for guests. The 44.5 acres are cultivated with fruit trees, olive groves and vineyards, as well as a protected natural park. The property is located within easy driving distance to the medieval villages of Montepulciano, Pienza, Montalcino, Cortona and Siena, as well as the thermal spas of Chianciano Terme.

Explore More
Castello di Casole: castellodicasole.com
Laguna Culinary Arts: lagunaculinaryarts.com
Agriturismo San Gallo: agriturismosangallo.com

Wine Country Cool

By OCInSite Site Admin on December 30, 2011 2:13 PM

By Paul Franson

The following article recently appeared in Montage Magazine.

If you haven’t visited Napa Valley recently, you’re in for some big surprises. Still best known for its wine (with food close behind), the valley is also becoming a destination for entertainment and the arts. Indeed, Napa itself has enjoyed a renaissance over the past few years, and the area south of the city is ripe with new discoveries. 

The valley has a whole new schedule of exciting wine, food and arts events coming up this fall, too, including Cabernet Season in the quiet months of January through April, when the valley will host a series of culinary and cultural events, such as Napa Valley Restaurant Month, its second Truffle Festival, the Mozart Festival and Festival del Sole.

No Longer Cinderella
Once a place visitors merely passed through en route through the valley, Napa is now a must-see destination.

The upscale Avia Hotel, recently acquired by Hyatt, offers luxurious accommodations in the downtown area, joining the elegant Napa River Inn in the restored Napa Mill. The upscale River Terrace Inn and Westin Verasa, which houses the famed La Toque restaurant, have also brought more life to downtown Napa.

The new lodging can hardly keep up with the explosion of restaurants, however. Most prominent are three new favorites in the Riverfront, a large multiuse development fronting one of California’s few navigable rivers.
The Riverfront hosts the first Western location for Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto, and the trendy big-city décor and innovative food are drawing scores of elegantly dressed young diners from San Francisco and beyond.

It’s like six restaurants in one: In the front is the take-out market, where you can also buy fish flown in from Tokyo or small meals to go. Walk down a long corridor where Morimoto himself is often directing service, and you find a sushi bar separated from the rest of the room. It has a hopping bar with comfortable lounges for sipping and meeting. The main room is lively if loud, while a side space is quieter, and the tables outside along the river are perfect for couples. The food is a combination of traditional Japanese and the chef’s famed innovations, and all good. Morimoto single handedly raised the hipness quotient of Napa, and it’s always busy—and open late.

Also in the Riverfront complex is TV chef Tyler Florence’s casual Rotisserie & Wine, and Fish Story, an outpost of famed Lark Creek Restaurant Group, both of which offer peaceful outside seating along the river.

The Riverfront also hosts numerous trendy shops and a fancy new visitors center with a large raised relief map of Napa Valley, and even a concierge who can arrange lodging and appointments.

Not far away is Napa’s hot “West End” at First and Franklin, across from the Avia Hotel. Its restaurants include comfy Norman Rose Tavern and Grace’s Table serving global cuisine. Oenotri restaurant features southern Italian food and wine that has garnered raves from both food critics and locals. Outside seating in the plaza is reminiscent of Palermo, if a bit less worn.

Also lining the streets are art galleries, a kitchen store, gift and lifestyle shops and the John Anthony tasting salon, more an elegant wine bar than the usual tasting room.

Eiko’s Japanese sushi bar is already packing in fans, the dark lounge a magnet for younger patrons. Tarla Mediterranean Grill serves food with a Turkish-Greek tilt. At the other end of First Street, Copia sadly remains closed, but the adjacent Oxbow Public Market has taken off and is now filled most of the time with happy eaters, drinkers, shoppers and gawkers; Tuesday is lively Locals Night, when many merchants offer special menu items, and live music is featured many other nights of the week.

New in the Market are the Kitchen Door restaurant with minimal service but upscale food at good prices; Ca’ Momi pizzeria and pasticcercia run by passionate Italians (don’t ask them to make substitutions!); and the C Casa innovative taqueria, which offers ever-changing seasonal dishes. Also new on Main Street: Cielito Lindo, which serves up authentic Mexican fare and local favorite, Azzurro Pizzeria e Enoteca, with Neela’s Indian food nearby.

About 20 wineries and tasting rooms dot downtown Napa, too, including the new 1313 Main. A favorite, however, is Carpe Diem Wine Bar on Second Street, run by a young couple and their friend who offer a wide section of wines from Napa cults to obscure imported selections along with tasty small and large bites.

Perhaps most surprising, downtown Napa now sports dueling theaters offering top entertainment. The Napa Valley Opera House was restored a few years ago after half a century of neglect and features a full schedule of music and other entertainment in its intimate auditorium. More recently, the 1938 art deco Uptown Theater has been restored to its original design and serves as a venue for live comedy acts as well as music performances from country and folk to today’s edgiest bands. Leaving downtown Napa, Silverado Resort’s new owners are upgrading the rooms and facilities, including the two golf courses and tennis program.

Into the Valley
Yountville continues to offer more fine dining than any other village in America: new is Michael Chiarello’s popular Bottega, featuring his inspired adaptations of southern Italian food. The well-known TV chef is back in his element in the kitchen—he was the opening chef at Tra Vigne—but finds time to schmooze with the patrons and charm the ladies.

Richard Reddington of Redd will shortly open Redd Wood, a wood-oven pizzeria, in the new Hotel Luca, which resembles an Italian hilltop village.

The LEED certified Bardessono hotel in Yountville offers luxury in an environmentally sensitive setting. Its new chef, former Copia chef Victor Scargle, focuses on farm-to-table fare, serving up fresh greens on the side of his succulent seafood and meat dishes.

Three venerable valley restaurants have been restored to first ranks, too: étoile at Domaine Carneros, the valley’s first-ever gourmet restaurant, Auberge du Soleil and the Restaurant at Meadowood.

The Lincoln Theater in Yountville recently mounted an aggressive schedule of concerts and other entertainment, and in Rutherford, Italian Alex restaurant has just opened in the Rancho Caymus Inn, once home to La Toque.

With the rise of Napa, St. Helena is becoming more of a pleasant shopping visit than a prime destination, but it also has a bevy of good casual eateries and some interesting new restaurants.

Farmstead, owned by Long Meadow Ranch, the valley’s most diverse estate, features its own wine as well as farm-to-table food from its own gardens, farm and olive and fruit orchards. Because Napa County outlaws restaurants at wineries, Farmstead is in St. Helena, not at the nearby estate. It offers a variety of wine tastings, tours and wine lunches where you can really get into Napa Valley.

Western-themed Calistoga, with its famed spas and mud baths, has slipped in attention, though its Solage resort has become a top draw, and its Solbar restaurant is one of the valley’s best. Exclusive sister resort Calistoga Ranch attracts those seeking privacy—you can’t drive in, but have to leave your car and be transported to your room.

Of course, Napa Valley’s top attraction is still the wine. County regulations—and the tepid economy—have discouraged many new wineries, but a few developments are worth noting.

Dario Sattui’s Castello di Amorosa, a Tuscan Medieval-style hilltop castle near Calistoga, is a fascinating visit for its extensive tour. The winery makes both rarified Napa-style wines as well as the sweet wines popular with many visitors but scarce in Napa Valley.

Mountaintop Kenzo Estate and underground Palmaz east of Napa, as well as Somerston way east of Rutherford in the Napa hills, are also notable attractions. 

Due to the restrictions on tasting rooms at wineries, Yountville, St. Helena and Calistoga have many new salons.

Art, too, has always played a grand role at many Napa Valley wineries, with Hess Collection, Mumm and Clos Pegase particularly significant. Now art has come to downtown Napa and Yountville with extensive pieces of sculpture for public viewing. Napa has installed 12 pieces of kinetic (moving) art for its art walk, sure to add a fresh appeal to the area.

Charlie Palmer’s
Insider Insights

Charlie Palmer is well known to fans of Top Chef, and has acclaimed restaurants from New York City to Las Vegas and Orange County, including Aureole, Charlie Palmer and Dry Creek Kitchen in the California wine country town of Healdsburg, where he lives. Each year in the spring, Palmer hosts the annual Pigs and Pinot weekend at the Healdsburg Inn, which draws chefs, winemakers and foodies from around the country and benefits local and national charities.

Palmer offers the following suggestions for places to visit in Sonoma/Healdsburg:

Visitors looking for a day trip should head to picturesque Lake Sonoma. Not only are the lake views amazing, but the drive up is also scenic and peaceful. While at the lake you can enjoy picnics and water sports.

On your way to the lake, stop by the Dry Creek Peach Farm for a quick tour and delicious peaches and the Dry Creek General Store to pick up some sandwiches at the store’s old-fashioned deli for your picnic.

Those with more time in Sonoma shouldn’t miss Safari West, an odd addition to wine country, but a cool, fun place to visit with your family. From giraffes to zebras, there are
more than 600 animals at the preserve, which you can experience on the different African Safari Adventures.

Must-visit wineries in the area include Rochioli Vineyards & Winery, A. Rafanelli Winery and Iron Horse Vineyards.

Hotel Healdsburg is located on the historic Healdsburg town plaza and is the home of Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen, which offers fresh dishes that are inspired by regional ingredients.

Pamer’s favorite room at the hotel is room 213—a premium room overlooking the courtyard with two sides of windows, a great floor plan, deep soaking tub and nice views of the gardens. Plus, enjoy evening jazz in the lobby Friday and Saturday nights—the perfect spot to have dessert and listen to some great local late-night jazz.

On the weekend, Dry Creek Kitchen offers a Wine Trail Luncheon Tasting featuring “neighborhood” food and wine pairings: three courses paired with great Sonoma wines for $76 per person.

The Secret Delights of Taiwan

By OCInSite Site Admin on December 22, 2011 5:28 PM

By Jude Tseui

I dip my toe gently into the dark granite tub filled with sulphurous spring water and smile — it’s the perfect heat for melting the day into evening. The lights are dim, jazz music soulfully streams from the surrounding speakers, and a blanket of quiet solitude warms the air outside my balcony. After cycling 75 miles through Taiwan’s idyllic landscape, the suite at the Grand View Resort Beitou in Taipei is proving nothing less than indulgent in every good way.

With exciting cosmopolitan nightlife in the north, sunny surf in the south, breathtaking landscapes in the east, and historical culture in the west, Taiwan is a veritable haven of inspiring exploration for the open-minded traveler. While once known solely for the mass production of inexpensive knick-knacks, this intimate island has quietly evolved into a must-visit international destination filled with tropical getaways, five-star luxuries and outdoor adventures. No matter what direction travelers decide to take, they are constantly greeted by the friendliest of people and most delectable of foods. And, with eight daily direct flights from Los Angeles to Taipei, getting to one of Asia’s most diverse destinations is simpler than ever before.

The Beautiful Isle
Originally named Ilha Formosa (“the beautiful isle”), the moniker is absolutely apropos. It begins with the naturally diverse terrain including sub-tropical and tropical climates, sandy beaches, marble-walled gorges, and tropical forests. Some of the most notable elements of Taiwan’s beauty are its hot springs. The country is home to one of the world’s top 15 hot spring sites with an array of types, including sulphur springs, cold springs, mud springs and seabed hot springs that range from exclusive resort destinations to wild mountain public locales. From a bit of pampering to outdoor adventures, this large mountainous island offers plenty of play on land and sea, with outstanding hiking, scenic and seemingly endless cycling routes, as well as world-class windsurfing.

Taiwan’s allure is accented by the welcoming culture and spirituality. The country hosts an amalgam of Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism and various folk faiths, giving rise to 15,000 temples (and counting) that combine art house, worship hall, community center and festival venue. Every district has a temple, as does every deity, and the lighting of incense is a common daily occurrence for welcoming good fortune. What truly brings the island’s beauty to life is the people you will meet. Whether dining at a family-owned restaurant, walking down the street, or sharing space on the subway, everyone is pleasant, helpful and open to friendly conversation. Thousands of people get by in Taiwan without being able to speak Mandarin, but if ever you need more assistance, a 24-hour tourism hot line is available with English/Japanese/Chinese-speaking operators. From the subtleties to the sublime, Taiwan is still Ilha Formosa.

Haute Hot Springs
More than 100 hot springs are scattered throughout Taiwan. The best-developed springs are set in forested valleys and meadows or overlooking the ocean, with both private rooms and public spas, usually available by the night or by the hour. The best hotel and resort hot springs are in Beitou, Taian, Yangmingshan, Green Island and Guanziling. Most wild springs deep in the mountains, especially Sileng and Lisong, can be hiked to relatively easily, while some require a journey of several days.

Whether filling a bath with spring water on demand or visiting a bath in nature, the water bubbling up from beneath the ground generates a variety of minerals that offer a host of healthful benefits, from improving skin tone, soothing sore muscles, alleviating arthritis, or easing general malaise. Depending on the type of spring and the region you are in, the experience will differ slightly.

The Grand View Resort in Beitou falls in the category of ritzy high-rise resorts, worth every penny. Rooms come with side-by-side expertly crafted granite tubs, one of which is to rinse off before and after entering your sulphurous hot spring bath, available at the turn of the faucet. Amenities are plenty, including fresh fruit and hot sake in your room upon arrival, a steam-style shower, and a calming breakfast with a view from glass floor to lofty ceiling of rich, lush greenery. Beitou also offers a co-ed outdoor public bath (Gonggong Lutian Wenquan) with a number of pools ranging in temperature, from comfortably warm to near scalding, as well as a frigid pool for the occasional jolt.

The Great Outdoors
The public transportation system (both by bus and subway) is incredibly easy to navigate with English-language signs and helpful MRT ticket booth employees. Because of this, every adventure in Taiwan is within reach.
Taiwan has a striking and heavily landscaped forest that is possible to hike year-round. Its National Trail System features an island-wide network of well-maintained paths designed for everyone from leisure strollers to altitude-seekers. In Yangmingshan National Park, on the northern part of Taiwan, hiking is the main thing you do. With tropical and mixed forests, river valleys, coastal bluffs, and narrow ridges, it’s a perfect traverse when hiking with groups of mixed levels. For more intense inclines, Yushan and Sheipa National Parks are the place to go. In fact, many travel books cite that a common hiking pace in most parts of the world is 3-4 km/hour, yet on Taiwan’s trails, however, 1 km/hour is more likely because of extremely steep conditions. With ropes and ladders already in place, hikers do not need technical skills (though a bit of brawn may help) even on high-mountain climbs.

Whether barreling up challenging altitude ascents to coasting along cross-island routes, Taiwan also offers a range of rides on bike-only paths, main roads, and mountain-biking trails with hundreds of kilometers in Taipei, Kaohsiung, and small towns down the east coast dedicated specifically for cyclists. One of the most beautiful routes along the east coast is through Taroko Gorge, widely considered one of Asia’s scenic wonders. Marble-walled canyons, deep slitted ravines, flowing blue-green waters of Liwu River, and slightly hidden shrines and statues are natural wonders are stunning to behold. If looking for a challenge, cycle up from the entrance to 3700m above sea level, being sure to take breaks for notable highlights, such as the Eternal Spring Shrine, Swallow Grotto, and Tunnel of Nine Turns. Nearby along County Road 193, Hualien County also provides rolling hill delights for the senses. Regarded as the most livable small city in Taiwan, Hualien offers flat land riding through lush landscape, rice paddies, tea fields, wild animals, and neighborhood temples. You can also use Hualien as a base for exploring Taroko Gorge, even choosing to cycle from the city to the start of the national park.

As surfing (yes, there’s surfing in Taiwan!) in the north is becoming increasingly crowded, namely when typhoon season hits and the swell rises, the less-crowded southern breaks are easily accessible using the newly developed High Speed Rail that travels from Taipei to Kaohsiung in just 90 minutes. Taiwan offers everything from beach breaks to reef points in the north, east and south that both longboarders and shortboarders will enjoy. Warm water temps and sizable waves can rival those in better-known eastern destinations, and in recent years, Taiwan has even hosted pro competitions.

To go off the beaten path, Taiwan’s outer islands offer a significant twist, especially in Penghu, Asia’s top windsurfing destination. During the winter and spring, the archipelago is possibly the windiest place in the northern hemisphere and what many have dubbed the Canary Islands of the Far East. Formed from solidified lava of volcanic eruptions approximately 17 million years ago, rock formations of basalt columns and stacks are everywhere.

Cuisine & Culture
In Taiwan, the customary greeting is “Have you eaten?” as opposed to “Hello.” And, as it continues to edge out Singapore for the “best street food in Asia” title, it’s a perfect first question to be asked. For a sampling of traditional foods, night markets are the places to go; Shilin and Shida are perhaps the most popular and easily accessible via the MRT Subway system.

Even if you don’t speak Mandarin, it’s easy to order by simply using your eyes and pointing to what looks tasty. Must-try dishes include Taiwan’s famous beef-noodle soup, luobogao (turnip cake), wen doujiang (warm soymilk), immense fried chicken in a bag, and chou doufu, a stinky tofu dish that you will immediately recognize. No visit to Taiwan is complete without a sampling of pearl milk tea, a light creamy drink with dark gelatinous tapioca balls on the bottom that make for a chewy sweet beverage.

If possible, visit the country during one of the many extravagant annual festivals are popular, namely the Lantern Festival (Yuanxiao Jie). In Pingxi of Northern Taiwan, people have been sending sky lanterns into the air for generations. Sky lanterns (tiandeng) are made of paper with a combustible element attached to the underside. When the element is lit, hot air rises into the lantern sack and the lantern floats into the sky like a hot-air balloon, illuminating the night sky with gently flowing lights that resemble glowing jellyfish in the sky. Long ago, remote mountainous villages were prone to attacks by bandits, so sky lanterns were used as a signal others, especially women and children, to head to the high hills for safety. Today, it is an uplifting homage to the past and a delightful invitation for wishes to come true, as many festival participants will write special desires on their lanterns before sending them floating towards the heavens.

For a truly beautiful and unique trip to the Far East, Taiwan will prove a destination that quietly beckons your heart again and again.

Hit the Slopes

By OCInSite Site Admin on December 13, 2011 4:34 PM

By Eugene Buchanan

When ski week rolls around, rest assured there’s something new and exciting waiting for you on the slopes this year. Whether you’re a newbie looking for state-of-the-art snowboard instruction or an expert hoping to maximize your GPS’ vertical-feet-skied reading, there’s something for everyone at the continent’s best ski and snowboard destinations. 

New School
Realizing that novices represent the skiers and riders of tomorrow, resorts are pulling out all the stops to increase their amenities for beginners young and old.

Colorado’s Vail has built two new Kids Adventure Zones while upgrading its existing family areas. Marked with new wooden archways designating such namesakes as Chaos Canyon and Porcupine Alley, the zones feature carved animals greeting skiers and come equipped with features like the 50-foot-long, ski-through Coyote’s Den.

Deer Valley has created a kid’s trail map highlighting areas specifically designed for kids (each themed after one of the resort’s four mascots). The resort has also redesigned its Wild West beginner area with the installation of new SunKid surface lifts. “There’s a lot going on for families and beginners,” says resort spokeswoman Emily Summers, while adding that the resort is also opening a new children’s clothing retail outlet in Snow Park Lodge.

At Northstar-at-Tahoe, the new Burton Snowboard Academy features simulators and terrain—including mini-half pipe, mini-rollers and gentle banks designed for beginners and groomed specifically for learning. The program includes specially trained coaches, gear designed for learning and a private, on-mountain lounge with lockers, coffee bar and large flatscreen TVs for video analysis. “It’s truly a one-of-a-kind program,” says Northstar spokeswoman Jessica VanPernis. “It offers personalized attention paired with lessons, equipment fitting and beginner-shaped terrain.”

Whistler debuts its new Max4 Program, guaranteeing no more than four people in any daily adult group lesson. “It ensures all guests will receive quality one-on-one time with their instructors,” says Whistler spokesman Chris McLeod. Continuing on the lesson front, Snowbird launches a new program for parents of Adventure Team Kids, letting them meet guides for a morning of skiing or riding together.

Impeccable Grooming
Deer Valley has made a $1 million investment to make its slopes even more impeccable, purchasing 41 new snowmaking guns and five additional snowcats, including two state-of-the-art Prinoth Beasts for grooming. Vail also upped its slope-smoothing ability with two new Beasts, allowing its groomers to polish approximately 1,200 acres each day. Not to be outdone, Whistler/Blackcomb has invested $2.5 million in new grooming equipment this year, increasing its grooming capabilities to as much as 1,500 acres a day—more than any other resort in North America. Add to this its state-of-the-art, 22-foot Global Pipe Cutter, and you have the world’s best machinery every place you need it on the mountain.

The Next Level
Take the hassle of waiting in line for rentals—and get the best gear possible—with Ski Butlers (skibutlers.com), a high-end rental service available at Aspen, Vail/Beaver Creek, Whistler and Deer Valley. These technicians custom fit your rental needs in the comfort of your room, bringing the sizes you need—including extra boots—so you’re ready to hit the slopes first thing. Plus, it’s the best gear around—perfect for schussing runs that hosted the 2002 Olympics at Deer Valley or Aspen World Cup. 

For steeps and powder this year, head to Snowbird, home of the self-coined “greatest snow on earth.” Coming off a record 783-inch snow year, the resort ups its gravity game even more this season with the opening of its new Zone 5 region, which offers some of the steepest, most difficult terrain on the mountain. The most recent area of Baldy Mountain to open, the new region is located the farthest down the Baldy traverse you can go. “It’s some of the most challenging terrain on the mountain,” Snowbird’s Emily Moench says. “There’s no easy way down once you get there.”

For sheer expansiveness, head to 5,000-acre Vail, making sure to take in the picturesque, powder-haven back bowls. Visit from Feb. 9 – 12, and you can also watch the first-ever Winter Teva Mountain Games, where world-class pros and amateurs go toe-to-toe in a variety of events. You can even participate in your own event with the Seven Wonders of Vail Challenge, where you try to ski the back bowls’ seven miles and 2,734 acres in a single day. “Hitting all seven in a day would give even die-hards something to brag about,” says Vail spokeswoman Liz Biebl.

If you’d rather visit someplace more Olympian, Whistler, the host of the 2010 Games, has plenty in store as well. Its new Bilodeau All Mountain Workshop, led by Canadian ski legends Don and Heather Bilodeau, is designed for experienced skiers looking to take it to the next level. With ski half pipe recently announced as a new Olympic event, the resort is also adding additional features to its five terrain parks, including a revamped snow cross track, 14-foot half pipe and additions to its 22-foot-high Olympic half pipe.

Take Flight
For fun away from the crowds, try your hand at heli-skiing, which is guaranteed to take your skiing and riding to a higher level. Halfway between Reno and Salt Lake City, Nevada’s Ruby Mountains Heli-Experience (775-753-6867; helicopterskiing.com) has operated out of a 10,000-square-foot lodge in 95-acre Reds Ranch for 34 years. You’ll ski more than 200,000 acres from wide-open bowls to glades in mountains rising out of the Great Basin foothills. In Utah, Wasatch Powderbird Guides (801-742-2800; powderbird.com) offers heli-skiing from two different locations—Snowbird and The Canyons—with groups enjoying a guide-to-guest ratio of 1:4. Save up to $170 by pre-booking, depending on the season. Further north, British Columbia’s Canadian Mountain Holidays (800-661-0252; canadianmountainholidays.com) has operated since 1965 when guide Hans Gmoser invented heli-skiing in the province’s Bugaboos. It now offers 11 heli-ski lodges in the Columbia Mountain Range, with accommodations ranging from in-town hotels to remote backcountry lodges. Bonus: Three-day trips guarantee 43,000 feet of vertical, and 10-day trips a lug-busting 142,000.

Conquering Cross-Country
Plenty of options abound if you want to kick and glide, or skate ski, instead of riding a lift. At Deer Valley, the White Pine Touring Co. (whitepinetouring.com) in Park City offers cross-country skiing and rental equipment on a private trail system, complete with lesson packages. Whistler Olympic Park (whistlerolympicpark.com), site of the 2010 Olympic Games, offers 56 miles of trails for classic and skate skiing, as well as 12 miles of wilderness snowshoe trails. The Tahoe region features kick-and-glide options galore, with most Nordic centers offering groomed trails, rentals (cross-country gear and snowshoes), lessons and such events as full moon tours. Highlights are the cross-country center at Kirkwood (kirkwood.com), which offers 50 miles of trails; Northstar (northstarattahoe.com), which grooms 25 miles of trails (including the only biathlon training center on the West Coast); and Squaw Valley (squawcreek.com), which offers an 11-mile trail system. If that’s not enough, the area offers a variety of other touring options, including the Royal Gorge Cross Country Center (royalgorge.com), the largest cross country ski area in North America.

The Vail Nordic Snowsports School (vail.com) provides lessons in snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. Nearby, the Vail Nordic Center (vailnordiccenter.com) features more than 16 miles of groomed trails, as well as a retail, rental and repair shop.

Whistler/Blackcomb
Coming off its second-snowiest year on record (622 inches), 2010 Olympic host Whistler/Blackcomb serves up more than 8,100 acres, a vertical mile of relief, three glaciers, 12 alpine bowls and 200 trails. Both resorts offer terrain from knee-buckling couloirs to mirror-smooth groomers, and Blackcomb has high-alpine glacier skiing. The recently installed peak-to-peak gondola, the world’s highest and longest, lets you ski both with an 11-minute ride across the valley floor. “La Niña predictions suggest another great season,” says Dave Brownlie, president of the Whistler Blackcomb Foundation. Keep your eye out for a new TELUS mobile app, and prepare your taste buds for concoctions from new Executive Chef Wolfgang Sterr, who brings a unique knowledge of Italian, French, German and Canadian cuisine from the Bavarian Alps. Bonus: Whistler’s early booking offer lets you save up to 36 percent on your entire package.

Local tip: Meet at the Whistler Village Gondola at 6:45 a.m. for the Fresh Tracks program, offering early powder privileges and a breakfast buffet. More info: 888-403-4727; whistlerblackcomb.com

Vail/Beaver Creek
Just a year shy of its 50th anniversary, Vail has undergone a $2 billion renaissance in the past seven years, improving its base areas while maintaining its European village charm. In addition to revamping its new Epic Mix App (see high-tech sidebar), the resort has completed a new 13,000-square-foot restaurant at Mid-Vail, The 10th (a nod to 10th Mountain Division veterans), and revamped its family activities (snow bike, anyone?) at its mountaintop Adventure Ridge. And all this comes on top of Vail and sister resort Beaver Creek’s more than 7,000 acres (5,289 and 1,815, respectively)—terrain so good that both resorts were elected to host the 2015 World Alpine Championships. Combine this terrain with top-notch service and the hardest part of your visit will be leaving.

Bonus: Vail’s Sun Up and Sun Down bowls are now reached by the High Noon Express lift, guaranteeing leg burn for the buck. More info:800-805-2457; vail.com; Beaver Creek: 800-842-8062; beavercreek.com

Deer Valley
Ski magazine has named Deer Valley its No. 1 ski resort for a record four years in a row. And like a fresh blanket of white atop its slopes, now it’s gotten even better. The resort has invested $7 million in on-mountain improvements, from revamped restaurants and bars to the addition of grooming machines. Add to this its 21 lifts servicing 100 trails and six bowls, and 300 inches of annual snow spread out among 2,026 acres, and chances are you’ll stand dumbfounded like a deer in a headlight. The icing on the cake: luxury ski-in/ski-out resorts like The St. Regis Deer Valley (435.940.5700; stregis deervalley.com) and Montage Deer Valley (montage deervalley.com)—both offering world-class spas, fine dining, heated pools and more.

Locals tip: If you’re there during a cold spell, warm your innards at the new High West whiskey distillery (highwest.com). More info: 435-645-6518; deervalley.com

Lake Tahoe/Northstar
Another resort fresh off a record-shattering snow season, the seven Ski Lake Tahoe resorts carry the momentum into 2012 with nearly $100 million in capital improvements. Leading the charge is 3,000-acre Northstar-at-Tahoe Resort, recently acquired by Vail Resorts, with more than $30 million in capital improvements. Foremost is a new 1,440-foot detachable quad chairlift and on-mountain restaurant atop the Tahoe Zephyr Express Lift. The resort also announced that Olympic gold medalist and X Games Champion Shaun White has chosen to call Northstar his home, thanks largely to plans to build a customized, 22-foot half pipe. The resort is also bringing Vail’s EpicMix to its slopes (see high-tech sidebar).

Shopping bonus: Northstar welcomes retailers Patagonia and Burton into its fold.More info: 800-588-SNOW; skilaketahoe.com

Get Outta Town: Santa Monica

By Jason Sanford on October 27, 2011 3:49 PM

Photos courtesy of Casa del Mar.

Santa Monica is one lucky lady—what with the most ideal year-round weather, innumerable outdoor activities with boards and bikes and throngs of board short and bikini-clad people playing in the sand and along the famed pier. Not to mention the always-growing, acclaimed dining and shopping opportunities and fun nightlife, and Santa Monica is the perfect place to get away from it all for the weekend, without having to surrender to the gas pump to get too far out of town. 

Just south of the pier is a foremost oceanfront beauty, the Casa del Mar, a hotel that boasts a superb beach at its back door and refined beauty throughout. Beginning its life as a majestic beach club built in the ‘20s, the property eventually underwent a complete transformation and became a hotel in 1999, and eventually joined the proud ranks of The Leading Hotels of the World.

What makes Casa del Mar so special is its ideal combination of classy beachfront luxury and cool-in-the-sun Westside fun. The interior of the hotel, from the handsome lobby and lounge to Catch, a spectacular venue for both brunch and dinner, is welcoming and beautiful. The rooms are well-appointed with one of the comfiest beds known to man, a flat-screen in both the living room and the bathroom and a sunken hydrotherapy jet tub that can relax even the most worn and stressed-out travelers. The rooms also offer great views of the swimming pool, The Strand and the sun as it sinks majestically into the Pacific.   

Brunch is a great mix-and-match experience at Catch, as one can pair up any brunch appetizer with a main course and a corresponding (or completely random) dessert option from the extensive, fresh menu. Whether it’s berries and yogurt, beets and burrata or steak and eggs followed by something sweet, there are lots of tempting choices for the relaxed midday diner. Also available at the hotel are a wide variety of signature gluten-free cocktails, ensuring that options are aplenty for happy hour—or any other hour that calls for relaxation.

Of course the best way to relax is by visiting the Sea Wellness Spa for one of their revitalizing hourlong massage treatments, quite possibly the hour best spent anywhere on your weekend getaway. It is here that the worries of the week, the rush hour traffic and the BlackBerry all fade quietly into the background—inviting a more peaceful you to take over. Also available are facials, full body treatments and other wellness options, making sure that guests look and feel their best when they hit the sand with their oversized towels and beach cruisers—which are also available for the day from the hotel, and are a fun way to take in the sights.   

Santa Monica’s joie de vivre is undeniable from the moment you cross into city limits, and there is no better place to soak in some of that inimitable spirit than at the elegant Casa del Mar.

(1910 Ocean Blvd.; 310-581-5533; hotelcasadelmar.com)

Southern Baja’s Time to Shine

By Jason Sanford on October 19, 2011 9:12 AM

Photo courtesy of CostaBaja Resort

The Sea of Cortez is a seductive, warm water paradise of possibility.

Americans are already familiar with some of the irreplaceable pillars of Mexico: the hospitable locals, eternal summer weather and seemingly never-ending supply of cold cervezas—but what many don’t realize is the awe-inspiring escape that awaits those who venture down to the southern end of Baja. A diverse mix of captivating natural scenery, thrilling water sports, downtown shopping and nightlife, and an unmistakably laidback vibe that awaits those who spend their visit in La Paz or Cabo San Lucas, allowing them to choose exactly how much or how little they want to do on their getaway. And both cities feature posh world-class resorts that redefine what a few days in Baja really means by offering a rich well of indulgent, memorable possibilities.

Inimitable Peace in La Paz
La Paz fuses all the luxury of modern Baja with old-school fishing village ethics, and whether one seeks world-class snorkeling or world-class snoozing on the beach, there is no place quite like it.

Photo courtesy of CostaBaja Resort

Located along a beautiful, sheltered bay that keeps the weather temperate and largely safe from tropical storms, La Paz is the picturesque, romantic Mexico that Americans dream of running away to. It’s a haven for those who love to eat well, live well and slow their lives down to the refreshingly casual pace of Baja, and just like its neighbor to the south, there is plenty to do and to see in the capital of Baja California Sur.

La Paz is a town magnificently poised for all sorts of water sports and land activities, and visitors will find no shortage of ventures to set out upon. It offers a diversity of possibilities unmatched in Mexico, including a breathtakingly beautiful ecological reserve (don’t forget the fins and snorkel) at nearby Isla Espíritu Santo, unmatched saltwater fishing that may just land you dinner, and some new, jaw-dropping golf courses to challenge your backswing.

Photo courtesy of CostaBaja Resort

Dubbed “the world’s aquarium” by Jacques Cousteau, the Sea of Cortez that surrounds La Paz is an eco-tourist’s dream, as many of the world’s rare marine animals call the area home. This unique gathering of sea life makes snorkeling, diving and dog paddling natural pastimes in the pristine green waters, and the fact that it’s always warm and crystal clear never hurts either. The waters off of La Paz’s shore are teeming with life and feature an impressive amount of marine biodiversity to check out, making it a perfect place for sea lovers. All you need is a snorkel, a kayak or a good pair of board shorts to enjoy the beauty of the water.

La Paz’s location not only opens up a world of aquatic adventures, but also offers plenty to do on land. Its unique location between the wide expanse of the emerald green sea and the stark contrast of the arid, rocky desert offers visitors a chance to head inland to camp, hike and explore the less-traveled parts of lower Baja.

La Paz is indeed considered a resort town, but feels nothing like it, as it boasts a peace and quiet found nowhere else along the Baja coastline. And one place that seamlessly melds relaxation with its luxurious setting is the gorgeous new CostaBaja Resort.

Photo courtesy of CostaBaja Resort

With more than 550 acres of beauty and 115 comfortable, stylish rooms at its disposal, CostaBaja raises the bar of Baja accommodations. Boasting its very own marina, a private beach club, a challenging golf course and manifold ways to pamper yourself and unwind, CostaBaja epitomizes the coolest place to drop anchor in La Paz, and endlessly tempts visitors to stay and laze the days away.

An ideal start to living the good life is by spending at least an hour in good hands at the Espíritu Spa at the resort, which will refresh the senses and make guests feel like royalty as they indulge in one of the many massage treatments. No matter which type of massage therapy is chosen, guests must be forgiven if they never want to walk away from the magical, healing hands of the masseuse. Touted as the first of its kind in La Paz, Espíritu Spa is a sensuous experience that lets visitors indulge in a Swedish, deep tissue, sports, hot stone or couples massage, as well as a multitude of available skin and facial treatments. Body wraps, full-day spa packages and romantic couples packages are also available for those who seek a next-level experience of comfort and pampering without leaving the resort.

Naturally, those feeling ambitious will have plenty of options around CostaBaja, whether it’s swimming with the sea lions and other amazing marine life at nearby Isla Espíritu Santo, shopping for that perfect gift and strolling along the Malecon boardwalk downtown, or choosing from an encyclopedic tequila selection at the resort’s very own Steinbeck’s restaurant.

Photo courtesy of CostaBaja Resort

No matter what kind of Mexican getaway you’re looking for—rest and relaxation or day trips ’till you drop—La Paz answers the call and promises a memorable experience. Largely overlooked by those who have never been, those who love its incredible solitude can still revel in this picturesque locale. 

Exploring Your Very Own Cabo
Before it became “Cabo” it used to just be Cabo San Lucas, and then as people began to discover its excitement and nonstop energy, it quickly developed and so did its reputation as a first-rate vacation destination.

Photo courtesy of Esperanza, an Auberge resort

Cabo is now as well known for its lively social life as it is for its spectacular year-round weather and gorgeous beaches, but it is often overlooked for its great sport fishing, world-class diving and its bevy of other outdoor activities for adventure-seekers to partake in. It has also gone to great lengths to become a golfer’s paradise and now boasts some of the most acclaimed and beautifully challenging courses in North America to enjoy.

And while the warm days keep explorers busy and joyfully exhausted, the fun after the sun goes down is what sets Cabo apart. The local nightlife is considered among the very best in the country—and why not—as old-school discos and local watering holes mix it up with extravagant clubs and sleek lounges along the playa. Whether you like salsa, cumbia or anything else, the beats will keep visitors on their feet, shaking what they got.

Cabo is known for its shimmering beachside resorts, and Esperanza, an Auberge Resort stands out amongst a crowded field with its well-appointed amenities and spectacular dining and relaxation opportunities along the corridor.

Photo courtesy of Esperanza, an Auberge Resort

The resort features 57 rooms that all boast an endless ocean view, along with the one of the top spas in Latin America, according to Travel and Leisure. The resort offers many distinct dining options, the centerpiece of which is the beachside restaurant carved into the bluff overlooking Punta Ballena, a major whale-watching point. And if visitors can’t get enough of the resort, there are numerous distinct ownership offerings available along the property as well—ranging from one to four bedroom residences—making longer stays in Cabo that much more enticing. After all, what could possibly be better than living right on the water in such a lively, vibrant locale?

Photo courtesy of Esperanza, an Auberge Resort

Southern Baja offers countless breathtaking opportunities to get out and work up a sweat, and with incredible hiking, fishing, golfing and sailing, those craving the active lifestyle are in exactly the right place for a challenge. Then again, Baja California Sur is a foremost destination for good old-fashioned R&R, so declining a cold Modelo and getting out of the chaise lounger may be the toughest challenge of all.

Going to Baja soon? Got a favorite spot for fishing, relaxing or chowing down? Share with the class at our Facebook page.

Best of the West

By OCinSite on October 11, 2011 9:22 AM

By Emmy Kasten

Once only a locals’ retreat and insiders’ secret, the sparkling bays and beaches of Ko Olina Resort and Marina are gaining momentum as the next hot spot for travelers who want to skip the crowds in the usual Oahu tourist territory.

Where to Stay: Aulani, A Disney Resort & Spa
Just when you thought the Hawaiian Islands couldn’t get any more magical, Disney casts its spell on the west side of Oahu with Aulani, the iconic company’s first resort and spa in Hawaii—and the first Disney hotel that is not located next to a theme park. The 21-acre oceanfront oasis has been highly anticipated since whisperings of its development began in 2007, and at long last, the property welcomed its first guests in late August of this year. Situated on the leeward coast of the island, Aulani is 17 miles from Honolulu International Airport. With 359 rooms, more than 400 villas, four restaurants, two lounges, multiple swimming pools and more, details throughout the grounds blend Hawaiian art and culture with Mickey Mouse fantasy to create the ultimate family-friendly enclave. Not to miss: the luxurious, 18,000-square-foot family spa where moms, dads and kids can get manicured, pedicured, massaged, masqued and pampered with local products and ancient Hawaiian techniques. Rooms start at $399 per night. (aulani.com)

Where to Eat: Roy’s
Hawaii regional cuisine founder and celeb chef Roy Yamaguchi serves his signature, groundbreaking fusion cuisine at the Ko Olina Golf Club. The floor-to-ceiling windows frame a view of waterfalls, the lagoon and the championship course’s 18th hole. Though the menu changes daily, you can never go wrong with Roy’s classics such as the misoyaki marinated butterfish or the macadamia nut crusted mahi mahi. Can’t decide? The prix fixe menu is always a good bet, and Roy’s Melting Hot Chocolate Souffle is a no-brainer for a sweet ending. (roysrestaurant.com)

Where to Play: Paradise Cove,
One of the largest and most respected luaus in Hawaii, Paradise Cove has entertained guests for more than 20 years. While wielding a signature mai tai before the big feast, guests can soak in the magnificent sunset views by the beach or take part in an array of Hawaiian cultural activities. The breathtaking hula girls and Polynesian fire knife dancers amake the trip worth the effort. (paradisecovehawaii.com)

Ko Olina Ocean Adventures
For a romantic sunset cruise, a daytime snorkel or to catch a glimpse of a humpback whale or sea turtle, Ko Olina Ocean Adventures offers luxury charters to suit every whim. Whether guests want to go sportfishing or cruising for dolphins, the friendly crew will guide each journey on their well-appointed vessels. Try snuba, a combo of snorkeling and SCUBA, to breathe up to 20 feet under water without the burden of heavy equipment. Best of all, there is no certification required, so adventure seekers can dive right in. (koolinaoceanadventures.com)

Luxury hotels and family resorts along the Kona Coast suffered damage from the earthquake-generated tsunami last march. The 45-year-old Kona Village Resort is still closed, but the relatively minor damage at Hualalai Resort on the Big Island has been completely repaired, and the resort is arguably better than ever.

The Kings Pond (the “outdoor aquarium”) in front of the Four Seasons Hualalai actually came away with more fish!  Other damaged areas, including pools, a restaurant and 12 guest rooms and suites, have been repaired, including new oceanfront paths throughout the public areas and an enhanced beach. New beach furniture, additional oceanfront seating at Pahu i’a restaurant, enhanced views from some rooms and suites as well as the addition of private outdoor patios and lawns to some rooms and suites complete the physical enhancements.

New at the resort is the Hualalai Grille, an island-style sports bar located above the Club Shop that offers gastro pub cuisine.

Hualalai Resort also offers luxury homes for sale (including one that went for $26 million in 2009). None were damaged in the tsunami as the residences are up the slope from the resort hotel.

Also new at Hualalai Resort is an all-inclusive luxury travel special called “The Hualalai Experience” for a group of up to eight people in a beautiful Hawaiian-style custom homes. The experience includes a four-bedroom custom home with private pool and spa, daily golf for one foursome on the exclusive Hualalai Golf Course, paddleboard lessons and use for all, eight massages, one private dinner and more.

The experience goes for $3,950.00 per night plus tax for up to eight people for a minimum of five nights. (hualalairesort.com)

A Worthy Mission

By OCinSite At-Large on October 10, 2011 9:58 AM

Photo Courtesy of Mission San Juan Capistrano

By Beth Fhaner

For an authentic slice of early California life, visitors must not skip the Los Rios Historic District in San Juan Capistrano.

“San Juan Capistrano and the Los Rios District are our piece of history close by,” says Gundula Reile, chef concierge at The St. Regis Monarch Beach. “Los Rios is located close to the train station and invites visitors into the quaint little cottages to either shop or enjoy a meal.”

Photo by Jody Tiongco

Established in 1794, the Los Rios Historic District, which includes 31 historic structures featuring various architectural styles spanning two centuries, was the neighborhood that served as home for the mission builders and mission ranch workers during the late 1700s and early 1800s. It was during this long period of construction on the original Mission San Juan Capistrano and the Great Stone Church when the Spanish and Acjachemen Indians were beginning to merge their cultures. A second wave of homes—utilizing board and batten construction—would later be built by European immigrants to the area in the late 1800s. Of the original adobe structures built on Los Rios Street, The Montanez, the Rios and the Silvas are the only three that remain.

The Los Rios Historic District was placed on the National Register of Historic Places on April 4, 1983. With its many historic buildings, including a mix of private residences and several structures that have been converted into shops and restaurants,  it is one of California’s oldest neighborhoods and is well worth exploring for an afternoon.

Unique Shops

With the sounds of mission bells ringing and trains rumbling by, visitors can take a relaxing stroll down Los Rios Street with its numerous willow and palm trees shading the path, along with gorgeous wildflowers, bougainvillea and cacti. Make sure to browse through some of the cute stores that line the area, such as Cottage Home and Garden. Located in a home built in 1888, this adorable shop features cottage chic, plus women’s accessories, baby gifts, soaps and candles. In addition, free classes are offered on weekends, including succulent wreath classes, as well as fairy garden workshops, where guests can create a miniature garden in a container, complete with tiny, whimsical accessories, such as birds, benches, fountains and, of course, fairies.

Across the street at Nest, shoppers will find a lovely selection of women’s clothing, scarves, handmade vintage jewelry, purses, rugs, candles and gifts. Also, be sure to check out the charming backyard area, where more retail treasures await.

The Tangled Vine is a unique business housed in a cottage built in the 1890s. Specializing in flowers, photography, arts and antiques, this one-of-a-kind shop also offers wedding and event planning services.

Area Attractions

Wander through the beautiful Los Rios Park, which was recently redeveloped with all native California plants, walkways, benches and a kids’ area. With its abundant plant life, including wildflowers and cacti, Los Rios Park is a peaceful place to sit and take a respite from life’s hectic pace. Another interesting aspect to the park is the photographic plaques depicting the area’s history that were placed along the Historic Depiction Program wall in 2009.

Photo by Jody Tiongco

Built in 1880, the Garcia/Pryor House now serves as the O’Neill Museum, which is home to the San Juan Capistrano Historical Society. The Victorian house was one of the town’s first wooden buildings, and it was moved to its current site from its original location across the train tracks and a block south. Open to the public, the museum provides visitors with a glimpse into what life was like 100 years ago around San Juan Capistrano.

For those with little ones, a stop at the Zoomars Petting Zoo & Bird Park is a must. Established in 1900 and formerly known as the Jones Family Farm, the completely restored two-acre petting zoo now includes hundreds of animals, plus pony rides and a miniature train ride. The century-old Olivares House, listed on the National Registry, is located at the front of the property.

Good Eats

Take a break from shopping at one of the charming cafes tucked into the area, including the acclaimed Ramos House Café, which is located in a house built in 1881. As in earlier times, chef and owner John Q. Humphreys lives and works at the house, where everything is made from scratch and the menu changes daily.

The Tea House on Los Rios is also highly recommended. “Are you up for a spectacular high tea ceremony?” Reile asks. “The Tea House serves a typical English high tea with assorted finger sandwiches, fresh fruit accompanied by cream and brown sugar, and, of course, home-baked scones.”

Other Los Rios district establishments offering delicious fare include the Hummingbird House Café and Hidden House Coffee, both of which have pleasant outdoor seating areas. Across the train tracks, Sarducci’s Capistrano Depot is also a favorite spot to grab breakfast, lunch or dinner.

The Jewel of the California Missions

No trip to San Juan Capistrano is complete without a visit to the renowned Mission San Juan Capistrano, a historic landmark that is also home to a museum, art gallery and gardens. Founded Nov. 1, 1776 by Junipero Serra as the seventh of 21 missions established by Spain, Mission San Juan Capistrano is the only mission in Orange County and is affectionately referred to as the “Jewel of the Missions.”
A short walk from the train station, the mission’s site also includes original buildings constructed by Native Americans in the 18th century, including the Serra Chapel, the ruins of the Great Stone Church (which fell in an earthquake in 1812), and the original padre’s quarters of the south wing.

An award-winning digital audio tour for adults, docent-led tours, a dine-and-tour package and a special audio tour for children are available. On the first Tuesday of each month, guests can also experience executive director tours, which are small group tours guided by the mission’s executive director to learn about all the behind-the-scenes information.

“In addition to Mission San Juan Capistrano’s highly successful summer concert series, and its weekday children’s programming, a short-term exhibit of rare artifacts from our archives has been on display called ‘The Treasures of the Mission: Historical Collection Revealed’ exhibit,” explains Executive Director Mechelle Lawrence-Adams of the recent offerings at the mission. “Through the selected items on display, it provides a stunning perspective of the past and the mission’s survival over 230 years.”

Among the many year-round special events, including concerts, exhibits, lectures, dance performances and festivals, the mission hosts the annual world-famous “Return of the Swallows Celebration” on Saint Joseph’s Day (March 19).

There is much to discover in the Los Rios Historic District and San Juan Capistrano. Whether you have a few hours or a weekend to explore, be sure to visit this enchanting, picturesque area for a look into California’s early years.

Photo by Jody Tiongco

Got a favorite spot to eat or shop in Capo? Don’t be shy, sharing is caring at our Facebook page!

Bela Brasilia

By OCinSite At-Large on October 03, 2011 9:06 AM

Photo by Joao Paulo Barbosa

By Jude Tsuei

While most visitors to Brazil dance the night away in Rio de Janeiro or seek the constant buzz of city life in São Paulo, a few discover the greatest secret of this dynamic country: Brasilia, its capital city. Already renowned as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the host cities of the 2014 World Cup, Brasilia is an up-and-coming destination we’re sure to hear more about.

With genuine diversity in culture and terrain, Brasilia boasts everything from 91 foreign embassies, to flora and fauna that complement those in the Amazon. To be included in the World Heritage list, a site “must be of outstanding universal value” and meet at least one of 10 selection criteria, which includes exemplifying “a masterpiece of human creative genius.” In Brasilia, that’s easy to see.

A Clear Design

Having just celebrated its 50th birthday, Brasilia demonstrates innovation—not only in its stark structures and modernist architecture, but also in the design of the city itself. “The city’s construction is an example of resiliency and faith, because we built the capital of such a big country out of nothing and in less than five years — some people can’t even get their houses built that fast,” says Pedro Souza, a 20 year-old medical student who lives in Brasilia.

By Alexandre Socci

Located in the west central region of the country along a plateau known as Planalto Central, Brasilia has a population of more than 2.5 million people, making it the fourth largest city in Brasil. The national capital is the seat of all three branches of government, which urban planner Lucio Costa and principal architect Oscar Niemeyer took into consideration when developing the winning plan for the city’s design, which includes underground evacuation routes.

When seen from above, the main planned portion of the city resembles an airplane, part of Costa’s innovative concept dubbed Plano Piloto, or “Pilot Plan.” The Eixo Monumental, or “Monumental Axis,” runs along the body of the “plane” between the tail and the cockpit, at the end of which is the Praça dos Três Poderes, or “Three Power Square.” Along the Monumental Axis are sections designated for hotels, banks, businesses and cultural activities. The axis is so precisely aligned that on April 21—known as Tiradentes Day to mark the death of a Brazilian independence martyr—the sun rises precisely between the two towers of the Congress building.

By Alexandre Socci

At the “cockpit” of the plane-shaped city sits its largest structure, the Television Tower, followed by a parallel row of 19 government buildings. The wings of the plane run north and south, creating the Eixo Rodaviario (“Axis Rodaviario”), which are the residential sections of the city and where important government officials also live. These areas are made of self-contained “superquadras” complete with schools, shops, cinemas, athletic facilities and restaurants.

To boost the feeling of unity—both literally and symbolically—Niemeyer’s imaginative architecture features repeating architectural elements in every building. Visitors are encouraged to take a tour of the Palace of Justice buildings, where waterfalls contrast geometrical beauty, and the Brasilia Cathedral, a spectacular modernist building with 16 curved 90-ton concrete pillars and stained-glass panels.

Public works of art dot the landscape on main streets, including landscape design by Burle Marx, geometric tile panels by Athos Bulcão and sculptures by Bruno Giorgio, as well as buildings and sculptures by Niemeyer. City tours (packtours.com.br) are recommended for viewing the city, although taxis and buses are readily accessible.

Natural Landscape

Those staying near the hotel district may enjoy a picnic at the Parque da Cidade (“City Park”) located within the Pilot Plan. Equipped with sports courts, a horse track, a racing kart track, skate paths, playgrounds, and trails for biking, walking, and jogging, the park attracts hundreds of visitors every day.

Though the city’s average temperature is a mild 78 degrees in Brasilia, there are definitely peaks of heat. Cool off with the locals at Água Mineral (“Mineral Water”)—also known as the Brasilia National Park (brasiliabrazil.info)—where natural springs and pools of running water emerge from the Acampamento Stream. Dry off on two walking trails: the 20-minute Capivara Trail and the hour-long Cristal Água Trail. On quieter days, walkers may be able to catch glimpses of local fauna, including capybaras, a world’s largest rodent. While the park is open all year, the best time to visit is between May and October.
For athletes, Brasilia boasts a terrain that fits many kinds of adventures. It now hosts the Brasilia Multisport (BMS) event—a smaller, independent version of the well-known Brazil Ecomotion Challenge in which athletes run from the city’s heart to the edge of Lake Paranoa, followed by a kayak paddle, road bike ride and trail run. “I love that we can have this endurance race in our backyard,” says Kenny Sousa, the winner of the 2010 BMS event. “It’s a great way to connect with nature and see things you wouldn’t normally see.”
For those seeking less a challenging outdoor escapade, Brasilia features free night bike rides with Pedal Noturno DF (pedalnoturnodf.com.br) and free mountain bike events every week with Rebas do Cerrado. (rebasdocerrado.com.br)

When asking native Brazilians which natural wonders are a must-see, “Waterfalls!” is a common answer. Chapada dos Veadeiros, within an hour’s drive from the heart of the city, is a World Natural Heritage site, as well as the earth’s brightest spot seen from space, according to NASA. In 1986, a wildlife reserve was also created in Chapada, allowing several animals to roam freely, including the guar wolf, tatu, toucans, parrots and mountain lions. The terrain is filled with rocky formations and canyons that are more than a billion years old, and the rich biodiversity of this region is comparable to that of the Amazon.

Camping in Chapada—which, at 1,342 meters is the highest point in the Federal District—allows visitors to fully appreciate popular activities such as trekking, zip-lining and rappelling. Travessia Leste is one of the best trekking trails in Brazil, offers breathtaking views of the region and the discovery of waterfall upon waterfall, including Almecegas, Raizama, Sao Bento, Andorinha and Segredo waterfalls. (chapadaveadeiros.travel)

A Welcoming Atmosphere

Along with no shortage of activities—day or night—the citizens of Brasilia are welcoming. It’s easy to converse because nearly everyone speaks English, and natives often invite visitors to join their plans, from late-night dinners to live outdoor music.
“I love Brasilia, because there is almost everything you can find in a super-city like São Paulo, but without all the stress,” says Manuela Bailão, a native of the city.

By Joao Paulo Barbosa

For the flavor of the city, try the picanha beef at Faisão Dourado or indulge at Porcão, an all-you-can-eat churrascaria steakhouse that features many popular local barbecue and side dishes. For lighter fare that centers on natural foods, Oca da Tribo, Naturetto, Boa Saúde, Flor de Lótus, and Amor à Natureza are great options. Other traditional menu highlights to look for are pastelaria vicosa made from the juice of a sugar cane, açaí known for its antioxidant benefits, and rei das codornas, a type of whole cooked hens.

And when it comes to nightlife, people in Brasilia say there is only one word you really need to know: “chopp” (pronounced SHOW-pee), which refers to draft beer. Visit Bar Barsilia for the best Beirute chopp beer in an ice-cold mug, open from noon until the last person goes home.

“I love the Martinica Café,” Manu says. “Chiquita Bacana is a great place to flirt. And Armazém do Ferreira has good pub food. If you want to dance, try Gates Pub or O’Rilley’s. They have a wide range of music and great people.”

At the end of the night, there is a range of accommodations from budget to five-star located along the hotel section of the Monumental Axis. As one of the first buildings of the new capital, the Brasilia Palace Hotel has a range of amenities and has hosted many famous guests, including Queen Elizabeth, Indira Ghandi, Dwight Eisenhower and Che Guevera. Other charming stays include the centrally-located Melia Brasil 21 hotel and the Tryp Brasil 21 bed and breakfast.

While many people—foreigners and Brazilian natives alike—admit that Brasilia didn’t immediately come to mind as a vacation destination, they are pleased to be among those who have discovered the country’s best-kept secret. And, not surprisingly, many are eager to return.

By Joao Paulo Barbosa

More Info:
Brazil Tourism Board: embratur.gov.br
City Tours: packtours.com.br
Brasilia-Brazil Info: brasiliabrazil.info

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Laguna’s New Kids on the Block

By OCinSite At-Large on September 26, 2011 9:17 AM

By Rich Manning

Photos by Jody Tiongco

Opening a successful restaurant in Laguna Beach can be a tricky proposition; there are tourists to lure and locals to retain. Culinary creativity needs to co-exist with comfort. Everyone involved in the operation must realize the guy at the end of the bar decked out in a Hawaiian shirt and flip-flops could very well be a high-powered CEO. The unique combination of world-class luxury, coastal serenity and independent spirit better known as the Laguna Beach vibe must flow freely throughout the venue at all times. Above all, a successful Laguna Beach restaurant must incorporate all of these rules of gastronomic engagement while retaining its own personal character. Each new culinary concept, menu design and dining space must contain a singular appeal compelling enough to draw diners to their doors.

Over the course of the last several months, Laguna Beach has seen a quintet of restaurants open their doors for the first time, eager to take on the challenges that the city’s discerning palate. Each of these new establishments are the collective endgames of journeys borne out of intriguingly different roots: One rose from the ashes of a longtime city favorite; another is the product of a veteran restaurateur acting out on her instinctive connection with the city; still another cobbles a path that can be traced back to its chef’s early days in Manhattan. Despite the varying paths that each establishment has forged en route to opening, each restaurant has succeeded in creating venues that honor Laguna Beach’s unique sensibilities in their own distinctive voice.

Starfish: Taking Downtown Down Town

Restaurateur Nancy Wilhelm knows what it takes to be a major player in the Laguna Beach dining scene. After all, her first restaurant, Tabu Grill, has been consistently lauded as one of the city’s prime culinary jewels. So when she sensed her new venture, Starfish, needed to bring the lively and laidback ambience of downtown Laguna Beach to the city’s southern end, it shouldn’t be too surprising that her intuition was correct. Indeed, since Starfish opened its doors across from the Montage Laguna Beach in June, the dizzying buzz that surrounded its launch has grown into the kind of praise that demonstrates how in tune Nancy is with the town. “I have received a lot of compliments from locals saying that they are so glad we’re here,” she says. “They’ve told me they don’t necessarily feel the need to go downtown every time they want to have the kind of fun, upbeat experience that we offer.” 

Nancy’s execution of her vision for Starfish is an organic process. The restaurant itself sits quietly in a corner of a lengthy strip mall. The interior space is anchored by a centralized bar whose warm lighting counters the dark, mysterious hues of the surrounding dining area. The menu items created by chef Jarvis Yuan offer a fusion of Asian flavors and American sensibilities—Nancy has dubbed the concept “Amer-Asian”—and offers upscale yet easily accessible dishes like garlic noodles and baby back ribs touched with an off-beat flair. Because of the comfortable persona that Starfish strives to cultivate, Nancy expects the venue to attract an eclectic band of visitors ranging from all walks of Laguna life. It is an element of variety that she embraces wholeheartedly. “It doesn’t matter if you come in wearing a suit wanting a full meal or if you are a person coming off the beach looking to grab some spring rolls and a glass of wine,” she says. “We want to be known as a place that has something for everybody.”
 
Katsuya: LA Style, Beach Sensibility

To say that the hospitality and entertainment juggernaut sbe did its due diligence in selecting the perfect spot to launch Orange County’s first Katsuya by Starck restaurant would be an understatement. The fact is that they spent nearly five years scoping the area to find the ideal location to launch the trendy Los Angeles-based sushi venue before they staked their claim to the elevated building formerly occupied by Hush.

While this lofty perch makes for an ideal showcase for the glamorous dining concept created by the one-two punch of master sushi chef Katsuya Uechi and designer Phillipe Starck, a conscious effort was made to infuse the famously chic eatery with a mellowed elegance befitting the Laguna Beach lifestyle. “We aimed to model the Laguna Beach restaurant after our Brentwood and Glendale locations,” says General Manager Jenny Morinaka. “We wanted it to include more family-friendly options and be less Hollywood.”

Make no mistake: Katsuya by Starck does carry a strong sense of sleek, chic ambiance that allows it to stake a claim as Laguna Beach’s proverbial place to see and be seen. Yet the unique attention paid to children does set this location apart from its LA compatriots. For instance, the venue boasts a kid’s menu that has been designed “specifically for the Laguna Beach community,” Morinaka says. Additionally, kids (and adults) who are not quite sure about taking that initial foray into sushi can choose from a special selection of grilled items from Katsuya by Starck’s unique, interactive robata grill.

Asada: Replacing a Legend

When Javier’s moved up the coastline to Newport Beach, it not only left behind one of the choicest locations in downtown Laguna Beach, it also created a void for refined, approachable Mexican food to enjoy amongst the area’s cluster of boutique shops and art galleries. It was a culinary cavity that Scott Macintosh felt compelled to fill. So Scott, who already struck Laguna gold by co-founding the popular eatery Nick’s, took over Javier’s former space and created Asada, his take on the Mexican steakhouse concept. However, Scott is quick to point out that Asada is very respectful of what they are replacing. “The building that Javier’s was in was sacred ground to a lot of people,” he explains, “so we didn’t want to come in here and just replicate what Javier’s did.”

Together with General Manager David Bos and Executive Chef Andres Miramontes, Scott is making sure Asada carves out a singular name for itself through the ambiance it cultivates. “We know it can’t be all about the food,” he says. “It has to be about the experience, as well. We want Asada to be the kind of place that you can walk into and you can just feel that it’s going to be good.”

Of course, that’s not to say Asada’s food and drink do not play a big part in creating its ambiance. Indeed, Asada’s menu of simple yet polished traditional Mexican cuisine gives a slight nod towards California cuisine to help tap into the downtown Laguna Beach environment. Plus, Asada’s tequila bar furthers the relaxed atmosphere by affording guests the chance to enjoy the popular libation in a host of different ways, from artisan flights to handcrafted margaritas.

Three Seventy Common Kitchen+Drink: An Uncommon Re-Invention

For a lot of Laguna Beach residents, the closing of Sorrento Grille after 23 years of operation marked a sorrowful end of an era. Yet for Ryan Adams, the shutting of the venerable eatery where he served as executive chef represented a beginning, one that allowed him to launch his new dining concept called The Three Seventy Common Kitchen+Drink in the late restaurant’s space, set to open near the end of September. At the same time, it gave Ryan the opportunity to unleash his dream of creating a neighborhood place that is completely driven by his own vision, from the design of the menu and dining space to the mundane financial aspects of running a restaurant.

Ryan’s ambitious culinary model will also afford him a greater chance to interact with his clientele, which is an opportunity he relishes. “One of the problems with always being in the kitchen at Sorrento Grille is that I never got to know the customers as much as I would have liked,” he says. “Since I’m going to be so hands-on with the day-to-day operations, I’m going to be able to come to the front of the house and get the chance to be a little more in tune with what my guests want.”

For Ryan, naming his venue Three Seventy Common Kitchen+Drink represents everything that he is seeking within his idea of a neighborhood place. His menu places a strong emphasis on food that’s local, seasonal and sustainable, a perfect match for Laguna’s sensibilities. Ryan is also very excited about how the simple pleasures of eating and drinking in his restaurant has the potential to bring Laguna Beach’s residents together, bolstered by the fact that the venue features communal seating areas designed to encourage different groups to sit down together and mingle.

Broadway by Amar Santana: East Coast Meets West Coast

Before he was earning acclaim as the executive chef at Charlie Palmer’s at Bloomingdale’s South Coast Plaza, Amar Santana was building a passionate zeal for cooking through the hyper-competitive kitchens in his native New York City. So when he and business partners Rich Cadarette and Ahmad Labbate had the opportunity to open a restaurant in Laguna Beach (set to go live toward the end of September), he felt compelled to create a venue that would honor his culinary roots. “I always wanted to have a restaurant that had a New York feel,” he says. “I wanted that vibe to be so strong that locals would feel like they didn’t need to travel New York to have the kind of experience I was offering.”

Named after the famed New York thoroughfare (as opposed to Laguna Beach’s passageway to the canyons), the industrial-themed Broadway contains theatrical elements from Amar’s hometown. Case in point: the restaurant’s enormous open kitchen—a space that Amar claims is the most visible of its kind in Orange County. The work area’s transparency serves a purpose that is very important to him. “The reason the kitchen is so visible is that I want people to see what I am all about and that I love food,” he says. “I want them to know that they’re getting the real deal when they come here.”

Once Amar develops this connection with his Laguna Beach clientele, he plans on deploying a culinary strategy filled with Gotham-sized dramatic bravado, as envelope-pushing items such as calf’s liver and sweetbreads will be available alongside his diverse assortment of contemporary dishes.