Bela Brasilia
By OCinSite At-Large on October 03, 2011 9:06 AM
Photo by Joao Paulo Barbosa
By Jude Tsuei
While most visitors to Brazil dance the night away in Rio de Janeiro or seek the constant buzz of city life in São Paulo, a few discover the greatest secret of this dynamic country: Brasilia, its capital city. Already renowned as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the host cities of the 2014 World Cup, Brasilia is an up-and-coming destination we’re sure to hear more about.
With genuine diversity in culture and terrain, Brasilia boasts everything from 91 foreign embassies, to flora and fauna that complement those in the Amazon. To be included in the World Heritage list, a site “must be of outstanding universal value” and meet at least one of 10 selection criteria, which includes exemplifying “a masterpiece of human creative genius.” In Brasilia, that’s easy to see.
A Clear Design
Having just celebrated its 50th birthday, Brasilia demonstrates innovation—not only in its stark structures and modernist architecture, but also in the design of the city itself. “The city’s construction is an example of resiliency and faith, because we built the capital of such a big country out of nothing and in less than five years — some people can’t even get their houses built that fast,” says Pedro Souza, a 20 year-old medical student who lives in Brasilia.
By Alexandre Socci
Located in the west central region of the country along a plateau known as Planalto Central, Brasilia has a population of more than 2.5 million people, making it the fourth largest city in Brasil. The national capital is the seat of all three branches of government, which urban planner Lucio Costa and principal architect Oscar Niemeyer took into consideration when developing the winning plan for the city’s design, which includes underground evacuation routes.
When seen from above, the main planned portion of the city resembles an airplane, part of Costa’s innovative concept dubbed Plano Piloto, or “Pilot Plan.” The Eixo Monumental, or “Monumental Axis,” runs along the body of the “plane” between the tail and the cockpit, at the end of which is the Praça dos Três Poderes, or “Three Power Square.” Along the Monumental Axis are sections designated for hotels, banks, businesses and cultural activities. The axis is so precisely aligned that on April 21—known as Tiradentes Day to mark the death of a Brazilian independence martyr—the sun rises precisely between the two towers of the Congress building.
By Alexandre Socci
At the “cockpit” of the plane-shaped city sits its largest structure, the Television Tower, followed by a parallel row of 19 government buildings. The wings of the plane run north and south, creating the Eixo Rodaviario (“Axis Rodaviario”), which are the residential sections of the city and where important government officials also live. These areas are made of self-contained “superquadras” complete with schools, shops, cinemas, athletic facilities and restaurants.
To boost the feeling of unity—both literally and symbolically—Niemeyer’s imaginative architecture features repeating architectural elements in every building. Visitors are encouraged to take a tour of the Palace of Justice buildings, where waterfalls contrast geometrical beauty, and the Brasilia Cathedral, a spectacular modernist building with 16 curved 90-ton concrete pillars and stained-glass panels.
Public works of art dot the landscape on main streets, including landscape design by Burle Marx, geometric tile panels by Athos Bulcão and sculptures by Bruno Giorgio, as well as buildings and sculptures by Niemeyer. City tours (packtours.com.br) are recommended for viewing the city, although taxis and buses are readily accessible.
Natural Landscape
Those staying near the hotel district may enjoy a picnic at the Parque da Cidade (“City Park”) located within the Pilot Plan. Equipped with sports courts, a horse track, a racing kart track, skate paths, playgrounds, and trails for biking, walking, and jogging, the park attracts hundreds of visitors every day.
Though the city’s average temperature is a mild 78 degrees in Brasilia, there are definitely peaks of heat. Cool off with the locals at Água Mineral (“Mineral Water”)—also known as the Brasilia National Park (brasiliabrazil.info)—where natural springs and pools of running water emerge from the Acampamento Stream. Dry off on two walking trails: the 20-minute Capivara Trail and the hour-long Cristal Água Trail. On quieter days, walkers may be able to catch glimpses of local fauna, including capybaras, a world’s largest rodent. While the park is open all year, the best time to visit is between May and October.
For athletes, Brasilia boasts a terrain that fits many kinds of adventures. It now hosts the Brasilia Multisport (BMS) event—a smaller, independent version of the well-known Brazil Ecomotion Challenge in which athletes run from the city’s heart to the edge of Lake Paranoa, followed by a kayak paddle, road bike ride and trail run. “I love that we can have this endurance race in our backyard,” says Kenny Sousa, the winner of the 2010 BMS event. “It’s a great way to connect with nature and see things you wouldn’t normally see.”
For those seeking less a challenging outdoor escapade, Brasilia features free night bike rides with Pedal Noturno DF (pedalnoturnodf.com.br) and free mountain bike events every week with Rebas do Cerrado. (rebasdocerrado.com.br)
When asking native Brazilians which natural wonders are a must-see, “Waterfalls!” is a common answer. Chapada dos Veadeiros, within an hour’s drive from the heart of the city, is a World Natural Heritage site, as well as the earth’s brightest spot seen from space, according to NASA. In 1986, a wildlife reserve was also created in Chapada, allowing several animals to roam freely, including the guar wolf, tatu, toucans, parrots and mountain lions. The terrain is filled with rocky formations and canyons that are more than a billion years old, and the rich biodiversity of this region is comparable to that of the Amazon.
Camping in Chapada—which, at 1,342 meters is the highest point in the Federal District—allows visitors to fully appreciate popular activities such as trekking, zip-lining and rappelling. Travessia Leste is one of the best trekking trails in Brazil, offers breathtaking views of the region and the discovery of waterfall upon waterfall, including Almecegas, Raizama, Sao Bento, Andorinha and Segredo waterfalls. (chapadaveadeiros.travel)
A Welcoming Atmosphere
Along with no shortage of activities—day or night—the citizens of Brasilia are welcoming. It’s easy to converse because nearly everyone speaks English, and natives often invite visitors to join their plans, from late-night dinners to live outdoor music.
“I love Brasilia, because there is almost everything you can find in a super-city like São Paulo, but without all the stress,” says Manuela Bailão, a native of the city.
By Joao Paulo Barbosa
For the flavor of the city, try the picanha beef at Faisão Dourado or indulge at Porcão, an all-you-can-eat churrascaria steakhouse that features many popular local barbecue and side dishes. For lighter fare that centers on natural foods, Oca da Tribo, Naturetto, Boa Saúde, Flor de Lótus, and Amor à Natureza are great options. Other traditional menu highlights to look for are pastelaria vicosa made from the juice of a sugar cane, açaí known for its antioxidant benefits, and rei das codornas, a type of whole cooked hens.
And when it comes to nightlife, people in Brasilia say there is only one word you really need to know: “chopp” (pronounced SHOW-pee), which refers to draft beer. Visit Bar Barsilia for the best Beirute chopp beer in an ice-cold mug, open from noon until the last person goes home.
“I love the Martinica Café,” Manu says. “Chiquita Bacana is a great place to flirt. And Armazém do Ferreira has good pub food. If you want to dance, try Gates Pub or O’Rilley’s. They have a wide range of music and great people.”
At the end of the night, there is a range of accommodations from budget to five-star located along the hotel section of the Monumental Axis. As one of the first buildings of the new capital, the Brasilia Palace Hotel has a range of amenities and has hosted many famous guests, including Queen Elizabeth, Indira Ghandi, Dwight Eisenhower and Che Guevera. Other charming stays include the centrally-located Melia Brasil 21 hotel and the Tryp Brasil 21 bed and breakfast.
While many people—foreigners and Brazilian natives alike—admit that Brasilia didn’t immediately come to mind as a vacation destination, they are pleased to be among those who have discovered the country’s best-kept secret. And, not surprisingly, many are eager to return.
By Joao Paulo Barbosa
More Info:
Brazil Tourism Board: embratur.gov.br
City Tours: packtours.com.br
Brasilia-Brazil Info: brasiliabrazil.info
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