Mama’s Cooking

By OCinSite At-Large | April 13, 2011 10:48 AM

---

By Jason Sanford | Photos by Jody Tiongco | Newport Beach Magazine April/May 2011

Keith Davidson is a man whose passion is evident—just ask about his mother’s (Mama D) big family Italian cooking straight from the five boroughs that inspired his modern-day Newport Beach establishment. Having a regular line out the door, a vigorous owner that knows your name and a maniacal, drive-for-miles “pink sauce” following on Yelp more than qualifies this restaurant as a celebrated establishment with food to be reckoned with.

“As a society, we’re sick of mediocre movies, mediocre service and mediocre food,” says Keith, the Queens native that owns the joint. “That’s why we’re in the outstanding food business—because if it’s mediocre, then mediocre’s going out of business.”

Owner Keith Davidson | Killer Cioppino

Keith’s philosophy for Mama D’s is strikingly simple and a little kooky—and that’s no accident. He makes it clear what he wants: “We want to be that place you take your new girlfriend or your parents when they’re in town.” He also makes it clear how to get there. Keith says, “Avoid the ‘success syndrome’ by not cutting corners after thriving as a restaurant.”

But what’s with the laminated placards that say “The Crazy Ones” and can be seen lying around the restaurant? They speak of individuality and being misfits in a world of cold rigidity, which is quite the philosophy for an Italian restaurant.

“We’re the scrappy underdog,” Keith says. “We’re not a restaurant in the service industry …we give service that happens to be at a restaurant.”

But how does all of this madness translate to the big white plate?

The ravioli in aforementioned pink sauce is spectacular, converting the taste buds of even the most devout marinara fans, author included. The handmade meatball, which is one of the first things Mama D taught Keith how to prepare, comes out juicy and nicely seasoned, not overcooked. Simple food done simply well is the hardest to find at many restaurants, making it the most satisfying when it’s actually discovered.

If sailors wrecked their ship trying to get to a bowl of the cioppino, it wouldn’t be shocking. Cioppino is a seafood stew that was born in San Francisco, and is very easy to make wrong—Mama D’s gets it right, as the cioppino is hearty, chock full of succulent seafood and possesses a complex flavor that begs to be joined by bread.

Lasagna is a telling yardstick of Italian cuisine, as just too much of one of the ingredients can overpower the rest, and the sauce has to be just right. Mama D’s lasagna is terrific, with layer upon layer of fresh and distinct tastes that are baked together perfectly. It is a treat for the senses with quite a bit of flavor coming together on each forkful.

Mama’s magnificent meatball in sauce. | A casual environment for some serious food.

But what makes Mama D’s so special is its owner’s and its crew’s genuine joie de vivre, which is evident in everything they touch within its four walls. It’s a spirit that comes straight from the top and spreads throughout—starting with Diane Davidson, Mama D herself.

“It’s all about every table, every guest, every day—and we’re not giving any excuses,” Keith says. He then closes his eyes, slowly nods his head and declares, “I want them to say when they leave ‘my god, that was so outstanding—it was exactly what I was looking for.’ ”

Indeed.

Mama D’s, 3012 Newport Blvd.; 949-675-6262; mamadsrestaurant.com
Hours: Monday – Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday, 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Reservations: Not accepted. Prices: $4.25 to $32
Tip: When in Manhattan Beach, visit Mama D’s sister restaurant by the same name.