Feast on Spring

By Jason Sanford | June 08, 2011 10:17 AM

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By Jason Sanford | Photos by Jody Tiongco | Newport Beach Magazine, June 2011

Ginger tea doesn’t give away much of its deep, zesty flavor with the wafting steam that rises from its white porcelain cup—it just barely entices the nose, sort of seductively teasing it, with that whole “you’ve never had anything quite like me before—and yes, you will be back for more.”

Bamboo Bistro serves the unique and incredibly complex ginger tea, in addition to savory food that is right out of Little Saigon, regular Saigon or even Nha Trang, which happens to be Chau Haller’s coastal Vietnamese hometown.

Chau is the founder and owner of Bamboo Bistro and its twin Garden Grove sisters, Brodard and Brodard Chateau. Already revered by hungry locals—not to mention the Times’ and the Register’s food critics—Chau’s cuisine is authentic to the max and chock-full of flavor, which is a nice kick to the taste buds considering it’s healthy cooking.

“I love to create, I love to cook,” Chau says. “That’s me, I love to feed people—it makes me feel good.”

Feeling good is definitely one of the side effects of feasting on Chau’s family recipes, especially when spring rolls filled with ahi or soft-shell crab are brought out to start the meal. The spring rolls are thick and are held together with the expertise (and fresh rice paper) that it takes to properly build them, meaning that they’ll take all that tasty dipping sauce without making a mess.

Usually Vietnamese spring rolls limit their creativity to pork or veggies, but these are a refreshing fusion creation, and have a different set of ingredients and taste. “The art of the spring roll” as Chau calls it, is a great appetizer here, no matter what’s wrapped inside.

While the base of the menu is Vietnamese, there is a greater blend of influences from across the Asian continent at work in Bamboo Bistro’s kitchen. Conventional offerings are given new definitions, such as the tea with the added bite of ginger, the delectable crab spring rolls and the fresh mango salad served with tiger prawns.

“It’s Vietnamese food that grew out of Thai food in the beginning here,” Chau explains. “I’m all about fusion, your food must be friendly. It’s unexpected, and people like that.”

There is much to like at Bamboo Bistro, as beyond the tea and rolls are the tasty tiger prawns over mango salad, which is a great balance of sweet fruit and savory seafood. The scallops in black bean sauce are delicious as well, featuring a sauce that enhances the natural flavor of the tasty mollusks without burying them in salt or spice. Whether the selection is more Vietnamese or Thai matters not—it is going to be fresh, surprisingly healthy and delicious.

Fresh Ahi Tuna Rolls are an innovative treat. | Photo by Jody Tiongco

Also, Bamboo Bistro offers catering, from large company parties to weekend gatherings on the beach. In addition to heading up Bamboo Bistro and her two other restaurants, Chau stays in constant motion in her new role as mom, yet still manages to get out to local 5K races and film festivals. She even talks of one day bottling her own sauces so that people can enjoy them at home.

“I love to come up with dishes based on trying new food,” Chau says with a smile. “We do a lot of things here out of love.”

Love and quality ingredients go together nicely on a plate.

2600 E. Coast Hwy.; 949-720-1289; vietbamboobistro.com
Hours: Daily from 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Reservations: Accepted
Prices: $8.95 to $24.95
TIP: Ample free parking is available on the residential side streets near Bamboo Bistro.